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The funniest criticism of The Bear is all the people mad on Tumblr because they think it's promoting gentrification.
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Gentrification is traditionally about outside money coming in and taking over a neighborhood or town, being anti-gentrification is not supposed to be anti-revitalization by the people and stakeholders who are already active in the community.
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And even more specifically, taking over and *changing* it in ways that displace or muffle existing residents / folkways / identity / etc!